Circles- What Works for Me

It seems all of the applique patterns I fall in love with have...ugh!!! CIRCLES!  Like making the Lily Rosenberry Quilt by Susan Garman, over 320 circles.  It was in tackling this quilt I had to figure out how to mass produce circles.  And so, I would like to share "What works for me".

I'm working on a pattern by Brandywine Design, called Brown Sugar Sampler.  All twelve blocks are different applique patterns, most requiring circles.

Here are a few 'tools' I use, when making circles, that make the process more enjoyable. You'll see how each one is handy as we get into the tutorial.  I've included links just in case you want to research further.

Easy Threading needle. 

I don't particularly like threading a needle. The needle eye is separated at the top which makes threading a snap, literally, the thread just snaps in.  When you are doing running stitches on several circles, like 320, this was a wonderful tool to have.

Frixion Pen-  You can use any fabric marker but I love using this pen.  The heat of the iron erases the mark. However, you will want to do further research if you intend to use the Frixion pen for marking your quilt top for quilting.  It works great for this application.

Karen Kay Buckley Perfect Circles- Her tutorial is great, but, I tweaked the process for "What Works for Me"

Let's get started:

Get your pattern and find the right size circle.  If you don't want to invest in heat resistant circles, anything you can trace around will do and make the circles using the freezer paper template technique.

One great thing about applique is you can use fabric scraps.  You will be working with the right side  facing down. 

Using a fabric marker, trace your circles onto the wrong side of the fabric.

Give yourself some space between each one

Cut out the circles giving a 1/4"+edge away from the drawn circle.

Sew a running stitch in between the outer raw edge and the drawn line. I'm using a contrasting thread so you can see my stitches.  Don't  knot the end because you are leaving a long tail, not pulling the thread to the end. Leave a long tail when starting the running stitch and when ending the running stitch cut the end leaving a long tail.  You'll need some length to hold onto to pull the circle around the template.

Starch the outer edge (see my two long tails?)

Place the template in the center and pull the tails to draw the fabric around the template

Press the edge with an iron, holding it long enough to dry the starched edge

Once dried and cool enough to touch, remove the template.  Holding onto the thread tails keeping the circle together.  There are times I will lay the circle back down and press once more if it looks like it loosened up a bit making it all wonky.  You can always put the template back in, pull the strings, add more starch and "turn and burn" one more time.

Raw edge up with the template removed

Finished edge up with template removed- Pretty nice!

Don't cut the tails until you're ready to stitch the piece to the block back.  When you are ready to stitch the circle down snip the long tails leaving enough length to lay with in the circle. No need to pull the running stitch out.

Oh, one more thing. I do ALL of my circles with the running stitch, at the same time.  This allows me the luxury of mass producing them when I'm starching (Turn and Burn).  Because the template is pulled out, it is ready to move onto the next circle  If you have more than one template, you can start on another circle while the first one is drying.  When it's cooled, you pull out the template and start another, while the second one is cooling.  That is mass production.  And you don't need 320 "perfect circle" templates to do the job.

As always....

I'm Sew Happy to Share.

Hugs,   Penny

Applique Templates-continued

Following the same template technique, I wanted to show how easy it is to do those dips and curves.
 

Be sure and take your sharp scissors and make those snips around the curves, like shown on the making the leaves. Being careful not to snip too deep into the dips.

See the little tabs as I start to press the edge over onto the template?  I use the point of the iron to lift the fabric over as long as the area is free from dips and curves. As we get into the dips and curves I  bring in the awl. Just like we did on the point of the leaf, I will do the same on the pointed curve of this template piece.

Here it is after the pointed curve.  Now for the dips and curves. 

I use the sharp point of the awl to help me gather the fabric around the curve, making sure no folds are made.  Using my finger I hold the fabric in place, adding more starch if drying. 

Then, with my awl holding the gathers I press the gathered fabric in place.

 Finished.  Nice and smooth.

Hope this helps you.
As always...
I'm Sew Happy to Share.
Hugs,   Penny

Applique Templates- What Works for Me

As I mentioned in my earlier post, I've tried many different ways to create applique pieces and I have found this works for me.  The main reason I like using freezer paper over other template methods is because the patterns I am drawn to usually have multiples of the same piece.  Example, leaves, petals, flowers,etc.  I'm a bit too impatient when it comes to repeating the same thing over and over again.   "Yawn"... it becomes boring.  So, to keep my interest in the prize, which is sewing all the beautiful pieces together to make a block or whole piece quilt,  I prep the parts assembly line style (to be shown further.)

I'm currently working on a quilt out of Kim Diehl's book Simple Traditions.  The pattern is called 'Garden Patch'.  I want to give credit to the pictures I'll be using in my examples.

Freezer Paper Templates

Tools/Supplies:
*Freezer Paper - Buy it in the wax paper, foil area in most grocery stores or Walmart. One roll costs under $7 and will last a very long time.
*Lite box
*Scissors
*Sharpie

Example of the pattern I'm using. And this quilt requires I make 56 leaves. Thus the reason I use the freezer paper instead of making one leaf template out of a different product.  Freezer paper allows me to do the Assembly Line Method and make 56 leaf templates. 

 Secure your pattern to the light box. FYI,  I've even taped a pattern to the window and used daylight as my light source.  Should your pattern have bold lines you may not need a light box at all.

Cut one piece of freezer paper large enough to fit tracing the amount of pieces you will be making.  I'm making 56 leaves so I'm tracing 56 leaves onto my single sheet of paper.  You will be placing the paper, waxy-gloss side down.  Tracing the pattern to the paper side.

You don't need to be an artist to do this.  If you look close you'll see I missed tracing the line and went back over it.

Now, cut two more pieces of freezer paper the same size as the piece you've traced the pattern onto. Stack the three pieces together with the drawing piece on top,  making sure the waxy side is always facing down.  Take a hot iron, cotton setting, and use the iron to melt the sheets together.  Yes the bottom sheet will stick to your ironing surface but it easily lifts right up.  Check to make sure all the pieces have bonded together. 

The pattern pieces are now on a stiff piece of paper, your  template with a waxy coating on one side.  Cut out the shapes using sharp scissors.  Keeping in mind, when you are cutting, you'll want to cut using long cuts.  This gives a smooth edge to your template.

When you are cutting out multiple pieces you'll notice some of the layers not have melted together.  No worries.  You can either go back to the iron and apply heat again or the pieces will fuse together when appling the templates to the fabric.

 

Now, lets start making pretty things.  Take your template piece and lay them WAX SIDE DOWN on the WRONG side of your fabric. Take your iron and PRESS the pieces to the fabric, holding the iron down long enough to melt the wax to the fabric
.

Cut the templates out leaving a generous 1/4" edge around the template piece.

Take your fine pointed scissors and make little snips where there are dips and curves.  Careful not to cut too deep, just enough to help ease the fabric over the template when applying the starch and iron.

Using your paint brush, apply the 50/50 starch mixture, saturating the edge of the fabric.

 

Turn and Burn

This is a term I heard someone use and I think it fits. Using the iron we are now going to lift the starched edge and press it over the edge of the template until it dries around the edge.

This is where the tailors awl comes in handy.  It has a sharp metal point but the handle is plastic so it doesn't become too hot to hold. The sharp point holds the template to the ironing board so pressure can be applied to turn and iron the edge, without moving.

When doing leaves. I start at the south end point of the leaf  turning the edge toward the north end point.

After reaching the north end, rotate the leaf around so you're working  from the south to the north again. Notice the tab that sticks out when ironing the fabric at the north end point, take your awl, fold the point inward and iron from south to north again.  Apply starch when the fabric dries out.

The awl is used to fold the edge over, holding in place to apply the iron.

The pointed edge shows for now.  When I'm ready to stitch it down, I will snip a portion away and tuck the rough edge inside of the edge.

SIDE NOTE: I keep the paper template in the fabric until I'm ready to sew the piece on.  I find it keeps the edges pretty when I have them jumbled up together in a zip bag in my grab and go box.
 However, I have read that some don't know you remove the paper before sewing the piece down.

Reach inside and pull it out.  That easy!  Also, the template can be used several times over until the wax diminishes and won't stick to the fabric.

Because I like doing this process all at one time, that is why I call it the Assembly Line method.  I make a separate template for EVERY piece so I don't have repeat most of the steps.

Hope this helps spark the applique passion bug in you.
As always....
I'm Sew Happy to Share.
Hugs,   Penny